How to do Intarsia Crochet
To celebrate the launch of my Puffin Pillow pattern, I’m sharing the instruction for how to do Intarsia Crochet for free!
These are the two essential things you need to know about Intarsia crochet before you begin:
A pattern is created in the fabric by changing yarn/colors multiple times within a row
By following a chart where each square represents a single crochet (similar to cross stich), you will know when to change colors
Here is a simple chart to get you started. I’ve taken a very technical approach to Intarsia crochet which you can apply to any chart, including your own designs!
Calculating how much yarn you will need
You will need 2 balls of orange and 1 ball of white. We’ll call the orange balls #1 and #3 and the white ball #2.
How do you know how much yarn you will need in each ball? I have taken a technical approach:
Make a swatch with 20 sc and 20 rows (begin with ch 21 and make first sc in the 2nd ch from your hook). The swatch represents 400 stitches.
Weigh your swatch. For example, my swatch is 5g.
Divide the weight by 4 to calculate your final weight ratio. This is how much 100 stitches weighs.
weight ratio = weight of swatch ÷ 4
my example weight ratio: 5g ÷ 4 = 1.25
Use the table below to find the multiplier* number of each ball. Times that by your ratio, then round the number up. Now you have the weight of each ball!
| Multiplier | |
| Ball #1 | 3.4 |
| Ball #2 | 1.7 |
| Ball #3 | 0.7 |
For example, I will need 5g in orange ball #1 because…
3.4 x 1.25 = 4.25
4.25 rounds up to 5g
* Read this if you want to get really technical! Here is how the multiplier is determined. I’ve taken the number of stitches you will need to do with the ball. For example, ball #1 will be used to make 310 stitches. Divide that by 100 (because your weight ratio is the weight of 100 stitches). So now we get 310 ÷ 100 = 3.1. Just to be safe I’ve added a little extra on top so you don’t run out of yarn. Multiply by 1.1 to add an extra 10%. So now we get 3.1 x 1.1 = 3.4!
Things to note before you begin:
Turning ch does not count as stitch.
Odd rows are the right side of your work and even rows are the wrong side.
Begin color changes one stitch before it is marked in the chart by pulling up the final loop of the stitch in the new color. This is described in the first few Rows.
Reading the chart
Begin with ch 23.
Row 1 with orange #1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, ch 1 and turn (22)
The ① in the chart indicates you should begin with ball #1.
Row 2-6 with orange #1 sc in each st across, ch 1 and turn (22)
Changing colors in Intarsia Crochet
Color changes in Intarsia crochet are handled in one of two ways:
Color Change Method 1
Introduce the second color and drop the first color.
Use this method when working on large blocks of color.
Row 7 with orange (#1) sc in next 7 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, with white (#2) yo and pull through both loops on hook (you have now changed colors), sc with white in next 5 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, with 2nd ball of orange (#3) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with orange in next 8 st (22)
Notice how the ② indicates where you introduce ball #2 and the the ③ indicates where you introduce ball #3.
The photo tutorial highlights the key steps in Row 7. Each strand of yarn is labelled including tails.
with orange (#1) sc in next 7 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, with white (#2) yo...
...and pull through both loops on hook (you have now changed colors)
sc with white in next 5st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, with 2nd orange ball (#3) yo...
...and pull through both loops on hook
sc with orange in next 8 st— that's Row 7 finished!
Here is the backside of Row 7
Row 8 with orange (#3) sc in next 6 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, be sure #3 remains on the wrong side of your work (facing you) when you drop it, with white (#2) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with white in next 7 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, be sure #2 remains on the wrong side of your work (facing you) when you drop it, with orange (#1) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with orange in next 7 st (22)
The photo tutorial highlights the key steps in Row 8. You can see how the dropped yarn from the previous row is picked back up in this row.
with orange (#3) sc in next 6 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, be sure #3 remains on the wrong side of your work (facing you) when you drop it, which white (#2) yo...
...and pull through both loops on the hook
sc with white in next 7 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, be sure #2 remains on the wrong side of your work (facing you), with orange (#1) yo...
...and pull through both loops on hook, sc with orange in next 7 st— that's Row 8 finished!
Row 9 with orange (#1) sc in next 5 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, with white (#2) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with white in next 9 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, with orange (#3) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with orange in next 6 st (22)
Row 10 with orange (#3) sc in next 4 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, be sure #3 remains on the wrong side of your work (facing you) when you drop it, with white (#2) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with white in next 11 st, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through st, be sure #2 remains on the wrong side of your work (facing you) when you drop it, with orange (#1) yo and pull through both loops on hook, sc with orange in next 5 st (22)
Let’s review color change method 1:
This is the main way we will change colors.
When a second color is introduced drop the first color. The yarn that you dropped will be picked back up in the next row.
On even rows the wrong side will be facing you. Be sure you drop the yarn on the side facing you. If you leave the yarn on the side facing away from you, then that means your yarn will be stuck on the front side of your work!
You will need to occasionally untwist your yarn.
Color Change Method 2
Introduce the second color and float the first color.
Use this method when working in areas with frequent color changes.
From now on, the instructions will not fully explain the color changes. When you are instructed to change colors you will need to remember that in the stitch before the color change: insert hook into st, yo and pull loop through st, with [next color] yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Row 11 with orange (#1) sc in next 4 st, with white (#2) sc in next 3 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 8 st, with orange (#3) sc in next 4 st (22)
The numbers in the chart let you know which ball you should use in each section. The reason why this is provided in Row 11, but not in previous rows is that balls #1 and #2 are now being used twice in a single row.
The photo tutorial highlights the key steps in Row 11.
with orange (#1) sc in next 4 st, with white (#2) sc in next 3 st, picking up orange (#1) again...
Here's a quick peek of the wrong side, (orange #1 is now floated behind the white)
sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again...
Here's a quick peek of the wrong side, (white #2 is now floated behind the orange)
sc in next 8 st, with orange (#3) sc in next 4 st— that's Row 11 finished!
Here's the wrong side of row 11.
Row 12 with orange (#3) sc in next 4 st, with white (#2) sc in next 7 st, with orange (#1) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 4 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 4 st (22)
Row 13 with orange (#1) sc in next 4 st, with white (#2) sc in next 4 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 4 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 6 st, with orange (#3) sc in next 4 st (22)
Row 14 with orange (#3) sc in next 4 st, with white (#2) sc in next 6 st, with orange (#1) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 5 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 4 st (22)
Row 15 with orange (#1) sc in next 5 st, with white (#2) sc in next 4 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 5 st, with orange (#3) sc in next 5 st (22)
Row 16 with orange (#3) sc in next 6 st, with white (#2) sc in next 4 st, with orange (#1) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 3 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 6 st (22)
Row 17 with orange (#1) sc in next 7 st, with white (#2) sc in next 2 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 3 st, with orange (#3) sc in next 7 st (22)
Row 18 with orange (#3) sc in next 8 st, with white (#2) sc in next 2 st, with orange (#1) sc in next 3 st, picking up white (#2) again (white #2 is now floated behind the orange) sc in next 1 st, picking up orange (#1) again (orange #1 is now floated behind the white) sc in next 8 st (22)
The ➌ and ➋ indicate the end of those balls. You can now cut the yarn of orange #3 and white #2 because you are finished using them.
Let’s review color change method 2:
Use this method when there aren’t that many stitches between the same colour.
When a color is used more than once in the same row, float the yarn in the back of your work. To float a yarn, drop the ball when you change color. Then when you change color back to the color you dropped, just pick it back up.
Rows 19-21 sc each st across, ch 1 and turn (22)
Row 22 sc in each st across, cut yarn (22)
Finished!
Here’s the wrong side
All done! Like I said, it’s a pretty technical method, but hopefully you can go forth and use what you learned and apply it to any design. Why not give the puffin a try?
